Turkey Travel Blog:

Datka Peninsula, near Marmaris.

I have travelled extensively in Turkey over many years so this travel blog will probably be a mix of recommendations about places to visit, recall of personal experiences and even some commentary about Turkish society and culture. In fact, let’s start with something that, while not unique to Turkey is very commonly practiced there. In western language, we would call it ‘touting.’ That is, trying to attract people to your business by approaching them as they pass by. In markets it is ubiquitous; in the streets it is common also but where I’ve found it most in Turkey is outside restaurants. It can at times be annoying and intrusive to have someone approach you, usually with a menu in hand, trying to entice you to eat at their restaurant; it’s particularly irritating if you have just eaten. Most people who tout are polite and not overbearing but some can be over enthusiastic and in-your-face, which for me definitely means I wouldn’t want to patronize their business.

Obviously these people are employed by the restaurant or shop which they are publicizing; it would be rare to encounter someone who actually owned the business actually touting for business although it does happen on occasion. But this brings me to my first encounter; in a place called Side (pronounced ceeda) in Southern Turkey, I met a guy called Demir, who had perfected the art. His method was his ability to identify people’s nationality by their gait or walk or by their appearance. He was also fluent in seven languages and had more than a smattering of about another dozen. I first encountered him on a stroll along the promenade in Side. It was my first day there; I was alone and he was lounging outside his restaurant. He greeted me by saying, ‘how’s the craic?’ I was immediately taken aback because (a) this is a well-known Irish greeting and (b) this guy sounded Irish but definitely didn’t look it. So we started chatting and I accepted his invitation to have dinner at the restaurant. I took a seat outside and watched him work. His ability to identify people and to greet them in their own language was astonishing. He would tell me where people were from when they were still between one and two hundred metres away. They didn’t all come in for dinner but most spoke with him and while he was actually touting for business, he had the facility to engage in intelligent conversation with everyone. During periods when there was no one approaching, we discussed everything from Turkish politics to the state of the tourist industry and the weather. He could carry on a conversation with me in English while greeting someone in French, German, Spanish, Russian or whatever language he thought his target spoke. I spent four days in the place and I never ate anywhere else, so fascinated was I by watching this man operate. I can say I never saw him get it wrong and the expressions on the faces of the people he spoke to were testament to his skill in identification. Naturally I asked him what he was doing there; why he stayed; why wasn’t he teaching in a University or giving lessons to business people. He said that he had had a few offers over the years but always declined because he absolutely loved his work. He said he was addicted to meeting and chatting with people; the restaurant he worked for was nearly always full and rewarded him well for his efforts. He also got to work outdoors which he loved and the weather in southern Turkey was nearly always sunny and mild. As far as I’m aware, Demir is still working his magic, still greeting customers; he is one of those special people whom you meet on holiday and remember forever.

The Roman Amphitheatre at Side.

But I have digressed hugely. Turkey is a massive country with over eighty four million people and has so many different strands and cultures to it that I can only touch on small parts of it. For example, most people are not aware that the retail and catering industries in Turkey are mostly not run by Turks at all, but by Kurdish people. For those not familiar with the Kurds, there are about thirty five million of them, spread mainly between Iran, Iraq, Syria and Turkey. There are approximately fifteen million in Turkey so they comprise a very significant portion of the population. While there have been ethnic tensions in the past and talk of their own homeland - Kurdistan, all of the Kurds I met in Turkey were quite happy to be a part of that country while maintaining their unique Kurdish identity.

Istanbul - one of the massive bridges which span the Bosphorus Straits.

One of the first things a visitor to Turkey will notice are the banners dedicated to and photos depicting the man who is recognised as the father of modern Turkey, Mustafa Kemal Ataturk. I found it astonishing that a man who died in 1938 after serving as President for only fifteen years is still revered throughout the country. Every business seems to carry his portrait; some of these are small and discreet but in some places there are huge street banners dedicated to his memory. These are renewed and replaced regularly. I guess if we look at Turkey’s history, it explains this to some extent. The country was feudal until World War 1, ruled by Sultans who had been very successful in capturing large tracts of their neighbour’s lands, ranging from the Balkans in the west to much of the Middle East. The country became so large it was known as the Ottoman Empire. Defeat in WW1 changed all that and when Ataturk became President in 1923, the empire had collapsed and Turkey was in a poor state. He undertook sweeping reforms and transformed the country into a modern, secular, industrialized democratic nation. Such were his successes that although he was only in power for a relatively short period, he left a legacy which will last for a very long time. The current President, Mr. Erdogan, although serving his third term, is seen as divisive and authoritarian by many and has rowed back on many of the reforms Ataturk introduced. His economic policies have also been questionable and the economy is not in a very healthy state. He is very popular in the east of the country which is seen as more fundamentalist whereas the western part identifies mainly with Europe and wants to join the EU.

Mountains near Antalya.

But I am digressing again from the primary purpose of the travel blog. Istanbul, while no longer the capital city, is still the main attraction in Turkey and draws millions of visitors each year. It is the only city to be situated on two different continents but that is only one of its charms. Its position on the Bosphorus strait, between the Black Sea and the Mediterranean and its location on different levels makes for spectacular views. That is before you view any of the main attractions such as the Hagia Sofia (which rivals St Peter’s in Rome in stature and ornamentation), the Blue Mosque, Dolmabahce and Topkapi palaces and the Basilica Cistern. I have only named a few sites and haven’t even mentioned the Grand Bazaar, possibly the largest and most diverse shopping centre in the world. Beware though; while it is perfectly safe, be prepared for an assault on the senses, all of them, as traders try to sell you their various wares ranging from food to clothing to Jewellery and a thousand other items beside.

Marmaris Harbour.

Turkey has an excellent road system and very good travel infrastructure in general, including the rail and bus network. It is relatively easy to travel through the country. If you travel south west from Istanbul, you’ll first find Bursa and then Izmir, both fine cities worth a visit. But my favourites in this region are a little further down the road. Çeşme is a beautiful resort town on the Mediterranean and is adjacent to Alaciti. Both have excellent restaurants with wonderful fresh fish and seafood. Çeşme is probably quieter and doesn't have nightclubs or bars and is ideally suited for travelers looking to relax or for families. Meanwhile, Alaçatı is peaceful during the day, but come nighttime, the streets are bustling with people and music coming from the numerous restaurants, bars, and lounges.

Going south from here, be sure to stop at the ancient city of Ephesus. Thereafter, the holiday resorts of Kusadasi, Bodrum, Antalya and Side are all excellent while not too expensive. My own favourite resort town on the south coast though is Marmaris and while there, be sure to visit the beautiful nearby town of Dacha.

In central Turkey you will find the state capital, Ankara. It’s a modern city but not very popular with tourists. The most popular spot in the region is Cappadocia known for its cone shaped rock formations, caves and bronze-age homes carved into the rock faces of the mountains. It is quite a distance from Istanbul to the north or the holiday resorts to the south but day trips or short breaks there can be arranged from both.

One thing I need to stress and possibly cannot say enough, is that I found all Turkish people, regardless of ethnicity, to be warm, caring, receptive, friendly and gentle. This does not fit at all with the stereotype image often promulgated in the media, particularly related to football crowds or vis-à-vis their relationship to Greece. I found that in popular culture, the Greeks were portrayed as the good guys with the Turks the baddies. It is sheer nonsense; both nations could not be friendlier. In fact, western Turkish people consider the Greeks to be their brothers and sisters and there is even an annual event where people from both countries swim from each shore and meet on an island in the Mediterranean. An indication of the humanitarianism of the Turks is their ability to offer shelter to almost four million Syrians, who had to flee their own land. They have also offered political asylum to other nationals from Iran, Iraq and elsewhere in the region.

On my last trip I discovered a new ethnic group, the Zaza people. This ethnic group originates from Iran but are not Iranians. They can apparently be found in many countries around the world but of a total population of one and a half million, over one million live in Turkey. They are similar to the Kurds in that they have assimilated and are happy to live in a country that respects their culture and unique ethnicity.

In summary, a multi ethnic nation with beautiful scenery and a very welcoming people. What’s not to like? It’s also one of the easiest places to get to as Turkish Airlines fly almost everywhere in the world. There is now also a cheaper option called Pegasus Airlines.