Italy

St Mark's Square Venice

I've never done a travel blog about Italy, even though I’ve been there many times. Then again, I never did travel blogs at all until a couple of years ago. 

So here goes: I don’t get it. Sacrilege to an Italian I’m sure, but let me explain: First I’d better explain what I don’t get – it is said that Italy is the world’s favourite and most visited tourist destination because it is so beautiful. I am willing to concede that there are many parts of Italy that are beautiful – Sicily, Tuscany and Umbria immediately spring to mind. There are numerous quaint little towns situated on top of mountains; Taormina, Castelmola, Siena and my favourite, San Gimignano, immediately spring to mind. All are wonderful but all have what I would call that fatal flaw that makes me question the almost accepted maxim that Italy is the most beautiful destination.

Let me explain: I first visited Italy in 1979. It was the first time I had visited any part of Europe and we did eleven different countries in a month, all in an ancient Fiat 127. We crossed from Ireland to the UK by ferry, drove through Britain to Dover and crossed to France, again by ferry. This was long before the construction of the channel tunnel. We then spent a week driving through rural France, travelling on back roads at all times (we couldn’t afford the autoroutes). We encountered numerous little French villages and small towns, all beautiful and pristine and sparkling in the summer sunshine. We saw numerous chateaus and tasted their wine, ate their cheese and other delicious food. The plan was to eventually hit the Cote d’Azur region, Nice, Cannes, St Tropez, and Monaco and then cross into Italy. Having heard that Italy was beautiful, imagine our anticipation after a week visiting the gorgeous villages of France. Imagine then the disappointment when we crossed at Menton and discovered what could best be described as organized chaos. All the buildings were dark and dull; all were painted the same colour, if indeed they were painted at all; every building had shutters, all of which were painted a rather dull green; there was a sense of decay and neglect everywhere and the overriding impression was that the place was dirty and could do with a good cleaning and a makeover.  

Now I’m aware that many people say that this is part of the charm of Italy and that the buildings are actually beautiful inside. I’m prepared to admit that many of them are but museums or art galleries or internal art deco doesn’t do it for me. I have subsequently visited Venice and Florence many times and while the ancient buildings are beautiful, I am always left wishing that someone would clean them up or give them a makeover. Perhaps it is just a personal thing due to my first impressions; back in 1979, our next destination was Switzerland and anyone who has visited that country will attest to how beautiful and scenic it is but it is also so clean, ordered and well maintained. 

Now don’t get me wrong. I’m not saying not to visit Italy. As well as the places I mentioned at the outset, Venice, Rome, Naples, Pisa, Como, Verona, Bergamo, the villages and small towns of Tuscany and Umbria regions and the region of Puglia are all well worth visiting. During ‘Italia 90,’ the football World Cup tournament for which Ireland qualified and performed admirably, a group of us drove literally from one end of the country to another, visiting most of the regions on the way. Ireland played games in Cagliari, in Sardinia, Palermo in Sicily and then on the mainland in Genoa and finally Rome. The entire country seemed to be in festival mode, greeting all of the visitors from the twenty four competing nations warmly and everyone was excited in anticipation of an Italian win in the tournament. Sadly for them, it didn’t come to pass. Italy exited at the semi-final stage having eliminated Ireland in the previous round. Many friendships were forged during that memorable month and many have endured. It was possibly a more innocent time. 

A small word of warning about today though; when we first visited in 1979 and to a fair degree in 1990, I would have said my overall impression of Italians was of a friendly, helpful people. Perhaps it is due to the huge influx of tourists in the meantime but recent visits wouldn’t reinforce that impression. In fact we encountered a couldn’t-care-less attitude in some places and downright rudeness in others, which is a shame. It has to be said that in the smaller, less frequented places, the friendliness was still apparent. I guess there comes a point of tourist saturation. I read somewhere that cities like Venice and Barcelona were thinking of imposing a levy on people visiting their cities because just too many were coming.  

I would urge both to proceed with caution. Things can change very quickly. While Italy is now probably as busy with tourism as before the Covid pandemic, there is evidence in many places of hotels, restaurants, cafes and other facilities that closed during Covid and have never reopened. This of course is true in Ireland also and in many other countries but I think there is a lesson to be learned here. If you do get lots of visitors, cherish them and treat them politely as you never know when the winds may change. I visited Italy twice in the past eighteen months but that was mainly because my partner had never been there and was anxious to taste the Italian experience. I’m not so sure we’d be anxious to return in the near future. Speaking of taste, I am sure Italian food is wonderful, because numerous people say it is and all can’t be wrong. However, it’s another thing that doesn’t do it for me. Pasta and pizza I can take or leave but I admit I am unusual in that regard. So don’t be put off by my blog – there are many wonderful places in Italy – be sure to visit and enjoy. For me though, for now, arrivederci.